Worthwhile Upgrades

My road and mountain bikes are both around 10 years old and counting. People occasionally suggest to me that I'd really benefit from upgrading them. I tell them they're wrong. There have only been a few new technologies in the last 20 or 30 years worth spending the money to upgrade to. While there have been tons of other innovations, those are only worthwhile buying when your old stuff breaks or wears out. Here's a list of worthwhile upgrades:

Road bikes:

• friction shifters to indexed shifting: indexed shifting "just works", allowing you to concentrate on riding rather than shifting


• downtube shifters to bar shifters: the obvious difference is that you don't have to take your hands off the bars as much (which is safer), while the subtle difference is that you end up riding MUCH more efficiently since it's so easy to shift and keep yourself in a comfortable gear range


• toe clips to clipless pedals: the comfort and ease of use of clipless pedals is great


• tubular (sew-up) tires to clincher tires: tubulars totally suck to deal with when they go flat on a ride - stick to clinchers if you don't have a follow car


• aluminum frame to any other type of frame: aluminum frames tend to have harsh rides, and there is good evidence that smoother rides lead to significantly less strain on the body

Notice that the most recent of the worthy road bike innovations (STI shifters) is from 1990. The basic road bike configuration hasn't changed in a long, long time.

Mountain bikes:

• toe clips to clipless pedals: once you're used to them, you can get out of clipless pedals in an instant without conscious thought - they will save you major injury at some point, guaranteed


• rigid fork to front suspension: you never realize how bumpy even the smoothest trail is until you put a good suspension fork on your bike


• hardtail to (good) rear suspension: the energy you save by sitting more is subtle but really adds up quickly - Horst Link (FSR) designs are the gold standard


• tube tires to tubeless tires: these virtually eliminate flats when used with good tire sealant


• rim brakes to hydraulic disk brakes: it's really amazing how well hydraulic brakes stop your bike when it's wet and when you're going downhill a lot

Things to keep an eye on:

• tubeless tires on road bikes: if these can eliminate flats like tubeless mountain bike tires do, they will be worth it

Here's what really matters:

• your bike fits you: you should be comfortable - if you notice your bike more than you notice the ride, check into this


• you have a comfortable seat and good riding shorts: your ass is the most important component of comfort on the bike, I promise


• your bike functions properly and reliably: it needs to get you to the end of the ride


• you ride enough to comfortably finish the rides you want to: if you only ride occasionally, you will always be struggling and won't enjoy the rides

Note to the racers reading this: I could argue all day long about whether the newest, coolest, lightest, trickest thing will really make you faster, but I won't. If you think it makes you faster, then that is all that matters, because the mental component of racing is huge.

Additional note: when you do buy new parts, buy as far up the quality ladder as you can. Bike parts are made incredibly well these days, and the good stuff will last you for a long, long time. The more expensive parts tend to be a good investment.